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Fraser Island - Dec '08

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Fraser Island Trip ... Dec '08  (Survivor Fraser Island)

Have a look at Debbie's photos here

27 December 2008 to 3rd January 2009 

Participants: Trip Leader: Jeff and Jamie (son) Sparkes          Assist Trip Leader:     Brian Mackenzie & Faye Stanley

       Judy & Harvey Smith                                        Graeme Clarke & Debbie Doherty

4am, Saturday 27th, finally the day had come; we were off to Fraser Island.  We were all to meet at Inskip Point at 9.30am. While we waited for the rest of the group to join us; we did our first of many recoveries for the week.  By 10am we were all boarding the barges for the Island.  I had never been to Fraser, so you could imagine my excitement to see as much as possible.  Trip procedures and itinerary were discussed after pulling up on the inland track on the way to Dilli Village. 

After we snatched out a Pajero and a Suzuki we travelled on to Lake Boomanjin where we had lunch, then off we headed for our first nights stop, Garry’s Anchorage. Imagine the surprise when we found ourselves looking at Dilli Village again. After a quick chat we again headed off to Lake Boomanjin. Yes, we were geographically disorientated. By the time we set up camp at Garry’s Anchorage we were all ready for happy hour and a swim.  What better way to spend the afternoon than relaxing in the cool waters of the Great Sandy Strait with a couple of beers and surrounded by yachts.   Early morning I saw my first dingo wondering around the camp, scrawny looking thing it was, but I swear he was wearing steel capped boots amongst the fallen leaves at 4.30am. 

Next morning it was decided that we would camp at the disused Bogimah Airstrip on the western side of the island at least that was the plan.  Heading north we called into Ungowa Jetty and morning tea at Wanggoolba Creek, getting there was eventful, as at times, we had to do battle on the road with the oncoming buses.   Anyone would think we were actually going to Noosa with the vehicles heading to Lake Mackenzie, our next stop. Who would blame them, what a magnificent place!  The sand was so white, water so clear, looked like an atoll from a tropical island, not a lake in the middle of the scrub.  The water was so fresh you could drink it.  I think there was every nationality on that beach and we were all enjoying and absorbing the same thing.  Nature at it’s best!

After our swim and lunch we headed north along Northern Road.  It is amazing how this Island changes its landscape every couple of kilometers.  One minute you are in the dense scrub, then into a magnificent tropical rainforest of tall slender palms and giant Satinay trees and before you know it banksias.  Our next stop was Mackenzie Jetty. Graeme, Judy, Harvey, Jamie and I decided to take the walk up to Z Force 2nd World War Training Camp. This dates back to the early 1940’s, here the soldiers trained and planned for the successful first raid on Singapore Harbour by the Australian Z Force Commandos.  The concrete relief map is preserved, however some of the machinery left behind is showing its age.  It might be a bit of a hike to get to the Z force training area but well worth the effort to visit and reflect back on a history of Fraser Island and these brave young men that not too many people know about. 

Leaving here we began our journey to the disused airstrip at Bogimah. After some congestion on the tracks, comparing maps a couple of times, and negotiating unsigned cross roads we found ourselves again back on the eastern side of the island..  Oh well, we were on holidays and camping at Cornwall’s Camping Zone on the eastern beach sounded like a fine idea.  Happy hour was spent on the sand dunes over looking the ocean with a breathtaking sunset behind us. 

Another early start, as everyone was up early and keen to get on with our adventure.  It was decided to head directly for Woralie Creek; this would be our base camp for a couple of days.  We had a quick look at Stonetool Sandblow and morning tea at Urang Creek. This part of the island obviously isn’t as popular as we hardly past a vehicle.  I had been told Woralie Creek was a must see and I have to admit I certainly wasn’t disappointed.  The view from the top of the hill was paradise, white sand, jade blue water and brilliant blue sky.  We set up camp on the beach while the rest of the group camped under the trees for unlike previous years the camp area was very crowded. Obviously the word had got out about this wonderful place. I never thought it would be possible to have the waters of the ocean so warm yet a crystal clear flowing creek which was within 20m of it so cold.  But this wonderful creek was where we spent a lot of our time, including pre happy hours, post happy hours and many other pre’s. 

Tuesday was a day of rest due to the morning high tides.  We did however take a leisurely drive up the beach to Wathumba Creek.  Brian took us for walk up the creek track to show us the mangroves which were white – dead! Just a small pocket along the creek but an amazing sight, like skeletons standing upright in the sand we are still wondering why they are that way.  The sunsets at Woralie had to be seen to be believed. They were spectacular. Unfortunately the north westerly winds, which seemed to come from nowhere late in the afternoon, made it interesting with tarps and tents.  We had planned to spend New Years Eve at Woralie Creek but the wind factor was too much. It was decided to pack up camp on Wednesday morning and head to Ocean Lakes on the northern eastern beach via Cathedral Beach to top up with fuel and ice creams.

Before we left Woralie Creek on the Wednesday morning, and after packing up, we all decided to have a swim to cool off and enjoy this magic place just one more time. Jeff found himself impersonating Steve Irwin jumping on the back of and wrestling to a standstill a rather large yabbie he found.

Once again the scenery changed at Lake Allom where the trees were filled with huge staghorns. Mother Nature has a wonderful way of telling you no, you can’t have these! They were so high up not even standing on the cars could you have reached them. Here we had morning tea and a stroll down to the lake to see the turtles that came up looking to be fed. Of course they are disappointed as this is not allowed.  Back in the cars the tree lined tracks lead us to Knifeblade Sandblow before descending onto Cathedral Beach.  I think by this stage Graeme was sick of hearing me say “Wow”, me being a big fan of tropical forests, I had only seen places like this in my gardening books.  This was paradise at its very best.

Unfortunately Cathedral Beach store had run out of unleaded fuel, so after lunch and an ice cream it was a hard drive through the soft sand at high tide to get to Orchid Beach to get to the fuel we had heard they had, before everyone else beat us to it.  Even though the Triton had a long range tank in, it was nice to know we could continue the rest of the week without any worries.

When you think of Orchid Beach you think of beautiful beach and palm trees, tropical resort.  Nah, but thankfully they did have plenty of unleaded fuel, food, ice creams, water and anything else you could imagine, even a pub. 

Once the cars were refueled and we were refreshed with an ice cream again, we head down the track to Ocean Lake camp site.  I was told on the way that two years ago on New Years Eve there was nobody there except our club trip people, this year it was almost standing room only.  We did manage to pick an excellent camp on the back slope of the beach dunes, on top of which happy hour was spent, after setting up camp, watching the waves roll in below us. Being raging party animals we celebrated New Years Eve and all retired for the night early. Being awoken at odd times by party celebrations on the beach near us, providing small but enjoyable firework displays.

2009 it was finally here, the plan was to go to the cape and visit the lighthouse.  Our morning was spent down at Ocean Lake for a swim and then breakfast, while Judy and Harvey packed up camp to head home early.  After lunch and high tide we headed off for the cape or at least that was plan “A”.  By 2pm the sand was so hot and fluffy vehicles were finding it extremely difficult to drive through the bypass at Ngala Rocks, but from what I understand this is nothing out of the ordinary.  After 2 vehicles were snatched out both Brian and Graeme decided to give it a go, unfortunately neither made it through and horror of horrors the Triton had to be snatched out.  Due to the time of the day and the difficulty of driving through the bypass track it was reluctantly decided by all to not continue going any further.  Back to camp we headed, via a small incredibly hot salt water creek which we used to try and cool down and clean ourselves off after an exhausting 2 ½ hours of pulling out cars and shoveling sand. 

Arriving back at camp, and with the rest of the afternoon ahead of us, Graeme & I decided to go for drive southwards down the beach where we found a salt water lagoon just north of Waddy Point.  It seemed a club of some type was grouped there when we arrived as there were tug-a-wars and 3 legged races going on.  What a beautiful spot to finish the day as we lazed in the cool water and relaxed.

Friday, leaving Ocean Lake area, we headed south stopping at Champagne Pools, Indian Head and the Maheno Wreck.  We decided to stop and camp earlier than normal at the Maheno Wreck Campsite area. After setting up camp we headed off to Eli Creek for a look and wander. We had finally found it! The place on Fraser where tourists breed! For those interested in such things, this area now has a very modern and very new public toilet.

We came away with a question rebounding in our minds! Why is it every fresh water stream on Fraser is so damn cold?

On many occasions I have taken my fishing rod camping and not even set it up, this time I was determined to at least wet a line, I even talked Graeme into joining me.  The weather however had different plans for us and it wasn’t long before it was hurry back to the tent and batten down the hatches, as out to sea we saw what looked like very bad weather on its way to us.  Happy hour was spent huddled under our tarp trying to hold it down.  Jeff and Jamie thought it better to go home now, instead of next morning as planned, feeling it gave them 2 full days to dry out the tent, so when the winds died down a little (we were sure it was the eye of some sudden cyclone) they packed up and headed off.  That left Brian, Faye, Graeme and I to do battle with the elements. And what a battle it was!  What can I say, after close to 4 hours of gale force winds and teeming rain, soaked and freezing – yes freezing, the 4 of us found ourselves taking turns cooking in the annex attached to Brian and Faye’s tent, an area 6 x 4 occupied by 4 soaking wet adults, camp chairs, table, stove and assorted camp gear. We couldn’t stop laughing as Brian and Graeme, braving the wind and rain, periodically had to venture out retying the annex tarp and car awning.  All the while carefully swapping places in this small confined space, each cooking or eating in turn. I realise you had to be there to understand, but it was one of the funniest nights in one of the most extreme weather situations I have ever experienced.

Saturday was overcast when we packed up camp and head for Eurong for coffee and a pie.  We had a wander around, purchased some souvenirs for the folks at home and headed off to Central Station. 

Wow, this was heaven, talk about saving the best till last.  I wish I had the time to just sit, look and soak it all in, there was so much to see and absorb.  The staghorns, I couldn’t even put my arms around them, imagine how old they were.  The ferns in the creeks were over 500 years old according to the Ranger who was clearing up after the storm the night before.  There were minor tracks leading off the main tourist walkway but unfortunately due to time and weather constraints it couldn’t be explored but I will be back.   As we headed down the corrugated inland track back to the barges, I reflected on the past week and felt really sad to be leaving this wonderful place.

After leaving the barge we headed to the car wash where the very friendly staff even re-inflated our tyres for us as we waited in line for our turn through this now very modern facility.

After giving our vehicles a good bath we headed off to Rainbow Beach Township and had, yes you guessed it, ice creams after which we said our goodbyes and reluctantly headed for home.

I had survived Fraser Island.

Thank you to Jeff, Brian & Faye for the time and effort putting the trip together. Also a big thank you to everyone on the trip for your company, the laughs and the wonderful memories. I look forward to the day I can return to this wonderful place and explore some more.

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